Sunday, May 30, 2010

New Zealand on a whim

In an effort to be spontaneous, we had booked one-way tickets to New Zealand from Brisbane.  We had no plans once we got into Christchurch, we just knew that we did not want to be locked into an itinerary.  In case we loved New Zealand and wanted to stay longer (or vice versa), we wanted the flexibility to do so.  However, when we got to the Brisbane airport to check-in for our flight, we quickly found out that was not going to be the case.  Since we did not have visas for New Zealand, we needed to show proof of a return flight to Australia from New Zealand.  So much for being spontaneous...

In a matter of 30 minutes, we had to estimate how long we would need to stay in New Zealand and book our return flights using computers at the airport.  We collectively decided that we would want at least four weeks to do both the South and North Islands of New Zealand and booked a return flight for June 21st to Australia.  Even still, if we needed more time, we could pay a change fee and extend or shorten our trip.

Due to having to book return flights, we were running to the gate after last call and barely made it our flight even though we had gotten to the airport with plenty of time.  During the entire flight, I still could not believe that I was actually on my way to New Zealand.  Just the day before, I was planning to be in a town on the East Coast of Australia called Bundaberg getting my SCUBA certification.  Instead, I was on an international flight to Christchurch, New Zealand, and I had absolutely no idea what I was getting myself into.  I did not even have time to do any research about New Zealand!

As we were flying into Christchurch, we looked out the plane window to see dark clouds and rain.  Over the loudspeaker, the pilot announced the outside temperature - 12 degrees Celsius! (it was 25 degrees Celsius where we were in Australia!)  I had not packed any warm clothes, but Vic was nice enough to lend me his red Canada sweatshirt for the duration of our New Zealand trip.  One thing to say about this - a lot of American travelers pretend that they are Canadian because they are embarrassed to be American, but that is not what I was doing...promise!  Even though I have the sweatshirt (or “jumper” as they would call it here), I still have to layer almost every other piece of clothing I have - it is so cold and wet!

We stayed the first night in New Zealand in Cathedral Square in Christchurch but decided to leave the next morning and drive to Queenstown.  Lee (one of the guys I am currently traveling with) is leaving on Saturday (May 29) from Christchurch, so we planned to do a fast loop of the South Island.  After he leaves, we are going to revisit places we liked but did not get to spend much time as well as see other parts of the South Island before heading to the North Island where it is supposed to be warmer.

On the way to Queenstown, we stopped at a place called Lake Tekapo.  Even though it was rainy, cloudy, and cold, we could still tell that the lake was a beautiful place.  The only way to describe the lakes in New Zealand accurately is that the water is a milky blue - the water is clear, but it looks like someone poured milk in it!






We got into Queenstown after dark, so we were amazed by the scenery that awaited us when we woke up the next morning.  For those of you that do not know, Queenstown is the extreme sports capital of the world, and we were excited to see our options for adrenaline.  A few of us had already gone skydiving before, so we wanted to try something different and collectively agreed that we were not interested in bungee jumping.  We decided to go canyon swinging instead in the Shotover Canyon and booked it in 2 days (they did not have availability for all of us the next day).









Also, in the spirit of Queenstown, we made up a series of dares during the drive to complete by Saturday.  The first person to complete 5 dares would get one drink from each of the rest of us.  The dares were silly - for example, one of the dares was to put on my wetsuit and ask someone at reception where we could rent a surfboard.  This would be funny because it is the beginning of winter and Queenstown is located on a lake inland from the beach!  No one actually completed this dare and the game was never complete, however as part of the game, I wore my retainers out our first night in Queenstown, Mark wore eyeliner, and we styled Vic’s hair into horns (hilarious!).



Our first night in Queenstown, we decided to go to the casino and played $5 blackjack.  Afterward, we went to a bar that had been recommended to us called World Bar.  Known for serving cocktails in teapots, World Bar was a great spot - the dreadlocked DJ played good music and we danced the night away.



The next day, we tried another Queenstown institution - Fergburger!  I can honestly say that the Cockadoodle Oink burger I shared with Amy was one of the best I have ever had.  It was enormous and we ended up taking our leftovers for the drive to Lake Wanaka.  Only an hour and a half from Queenstown, Lake Wanaka is another milky blue lake surrounded by amazing scenery.  Even though it has been cold and rainy each day so far, it is hard not to appreciate the endless scenery that New Zealand has to offer.  And another New Zealand fact that we can attest to - there are so many sheep!  Supposedly, there are 10 sheep for every person (4 million people and about 40 million sheep).



After Lake Wanaka, we drove back to Queenstown and decided to play a friendly game of poker in our hostel for $5 buy-in.  I ended up getting some great hands (and bluffed when I didn’t) and won the entire pot (ended up only being $20, but still)!

Canyon swinging day had arrived the next morning, and we were all nervous and excited.  Vic was the only one who was terrified and regretted signing up to do it.  We decided to play a few holes of Frisbee golf in the morning at the Queenstown Gardens (Vic and I were Team Gino, Lee and Amy were Team Brit, and Mark was Team Grumpy) to get our minds off the extreme sport awaiting us in the afternoon.  At the end of 4 holes, Team Gino and Team Grumpy were tied, but we had to pause the game to make our canyon swinging reservation.









We drove out to Shotover Canyon, and on the way we were expected to decide on a position for the jump.  Similar to bungee jumping, canyon swinging involves jumping off a ledge into a canyon.  There is a 60 meter freefall (which is the same as the highest bungee in the world, also located in Queenstown).  However, the difference between canyon swinging and bungee jumping is that instead of bouncing at the end, canyon swinging continues into a 200 meter swing at speeds of up to 150 km per hour.  Also, there are only a few positions for bungee jumping, whereas there are about 60 different positions for canyon swinging.









Since Vic was terrified, he jumped first and was off the platform before we even had time to videotape him.  He took a running leap and jumped headfirst into the canyon below.  Mark was next and decided to do a backflip off the ledge.  Amy, Lee, and I were next and we all were gutsy enough to do the Pin Drop position.  The Pin Drop position involves leaning forward at the waist with your hands behind your back while you jump sideways off the platform.  Since you do not have any limbs exposed, the Pin Drop is one of the scariest positions and can gain the fastest speeds.  The only way that I can explain the experience of the Pin Drop is that it was terrifying and the adrenaline rush was incredible!

In fact, Amy, Mark, and I decided to do a second jump - this time trying harder positions.  Mark went first and did Gimp Boy Goes to Hollywood which meant he fell headfirst into canyon and Amy tried the Elvis Cutaway position.  Somehow I was talked into doing the position called the “Chair of Death!”  I was seated in a plastic chair and a seatbelt was strapped to my waist.  Basically, I was expected to lean the chair backwards over the edge, backflipping into the abyss below.  This would have been terrifying enough, however the guys working the swing taunted me by holding me off the edge of the cliff.  In fact, Lee could not do a second jump because he was so distraught by watching my chair jump.  Amy was the only one brave enough to do a third jump - she attempted to do backflips!



With our adrenaline pumping, we decided to drive to Mount Cook Village later that night.  On the drive, I talked to my mom and dad on the phone just as it started to snow.  The snow continued for the rest of the drive, and by the time we arrived in Mount Cook, we were worried that we might get snowed in!  We made it safely and stayed the night at the only hostel in town.  By chance, some of the other people were watching Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring, and since I had never seen any of the trilogy, we decided to watch it.  How appropriate to watch Lord of the Rings in New Zealand where it was filmed!



The next morning, we awoke to a winter wonderland and snow continued to fall throughout the day.  We went on a 2-hour hike through the snow called the Kea Point walk.  It was a beautiful walk and we stopped to have a few snowball fights along the way.  There was a lookout over the lake surrounded by snow-covered mountains at the end of the walk, and of course I slipped and fell the whole way down the stairs, bruising my tailbone!  After walking back and eating soup for lunch, we decided it would be best to drive the entire way to Christchurch that night in case the snow got worse.






Once again, we stayed the night in Cathedral Square in Christchurch and celebrated Lee’s last night in New Zealand at a nearby Irish pub.  Even though it was still rainy the next morning, we decided to walk around Christchurch before heading to the airport.  Not a very pretty city, Christchurch offers even less to see on a cold, rainy day.






At the airport, we said goodbye to Lee and decided to roughly plan out the duration of our trip in New Zealand.  We returned our rental Toyota Rav-4 that we had had for the last 5 days and traded it in for a smaller car since there would only be four of us.  Since many of the roads are closed due to weather conditions (rain and flooding in the Southeast and snow in Queenstown and the Southwest), we decided to begin by driving  North to Kaikoura that night.

We planned to have our smaller car on the South Island for 10 days or so, then fly to Wellington in the North Island and get a campervan for the last 2 weeks we would be in New Zealand.  The weather is expected to be drier and warmer in the North Island, so we definitely wanted to rent a campervan for the experience as well as to save a little money.  And also, it would be nice to have a home for more than a few nights (even though it would be in a van) as we are starting to tire of living out of suitcases and moving every few days...

Sunday, May 23, 2010

East Coast Road Trip Part II

Surfer’s Paradise - the Lonely Planet warns that it is like Paris Hilton, “flashy, trashy, always up for a party and big on style and self-promotion.”  After Byron Bay, I was not sure I would be able to appreciate a place like that.  It was definitely the people that made Surfer’s Paradise a great next stop on my tour up the East Coast.

Felix and I checked into our hostel in Surfer’s Paradise and were given a room that no one else had checked into yet.  When our new roommates arrived, (Amy, Lee, Mark, and Vic) we had instant new friends.  They also brought with them some friends that they had met just the day before in Byron Bay (Hokai, Karina, and Melena), so Felix and I went from just the two of us to a large group.

We had heard that Surfer’s Paradise is known for their nightlife, and our hostel was organizing a night out (even though it was Monday night).  The night out got us free entry into a club called Sin City (which would usually be $15), one free drink, and discounted drinks for the rest of the night.  We ended up staying and dancing until late in the night and we had a great time.






The next morning, we rented a few surfboards and bodyboards and took to the waves - why else do they call it Surfer’s Paradise?  The day really was paradise; no one else had ever been surfing before, so I took my new knowledge and gave my new friends lessons.  I was such a proud teacher by the end of the day, because everyone managed to stand up and ride in a few waves.  Maybe I have found my new calling...






Amy, Vic, Lee, and Mark were only planning to stay in Surfer’s Paradise for one night, but we convinced them to stay with us for another.  The next night was much more relaxing and even though our hostel was doing another night out, we decided to stay in and just hang out.  We had to wake up early the next day - Felix and I were going to Noosa Heads as our next stop.

As soon as I got to Noosa, I already loved it.  It was the complete opposite of Surfer’s Paradise but also very different from Byron Bay as well.  Much more relaxed and relatively free from tourism, Noosa Heads has beautiful beaches and a famous national park.  I even considered taking a job at the hostel that we were staying at for 3 - 4 weeks working at the travel desk just so I could spend some more time there.  It would have been a great time; they only needed someone to work 2 hours a day in exchange for free room, board, food, and internet.  My thoughts were that I could definitely improve my surfing skills and save some money at the same time.

We decided to walk through the Noosa National Park just before sunset, and there were incredible views (and dolphins, of course!) and strangely, wild turkeys along the walk.  We walked as far as a place called Hell’s Gates that was incredibly windy and led you to an enormous drop-off over a cliff before heading back to avoid being out after the sun went down.  We also took a quick detour to see Alexandria Bay which is supposedly an informal nude beach (although there was no one on it) and then headed back to our hostel.


















The next morning, I borrowed a surfboard from our hostel and rode a few waves at Noosa Spit.  The funny thing about Noosa is that the waves are really small (or even nonexistent on some beaches), so it is a great place for beginners like me.  I had my best ride ever and was not ready to leave!  Another highlight of the day is Felix wearing my wetsuit (that I bought for a huge discount from my surf instructor!), because he is at least 6’4”!  It was hilarious watching him struggle to fit.



The only reason I was convinced to leave Noosa Heads is that we had made plans with Amy, Lee, Vic, and Mark to meet up in Hervey Bay and do the self-drive tour to Fraser Island together.  For those of you that do not know, Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world.  From Hervey Bay, the tour operators put you into groups of 8, rent you a 4-wheel-drive and some camping gear, and you have the next 3 days and 2 nights in paradise.  Unfortunately, in recent times, many backpackers have been reckless and a few have actually died.  Because of this, starting in July, they are going to require each group to be accompanied by a guide and driving instructor.  When we heard this, we were so glad that we were able to do the trip before this change took place.

When we arrived in Hervey Bay, we were just in time for our 1 1/2 hour briefing on all of the safety procedures for our trip to Fraser Island.  Our group of 8 consisted of Felix, Amy, Lee, Vic, Mark, me, and 2 girls from England named Emily and Claire.  The briefing was very long and repetitive, and by the time it was finished, we had heard how many dangers - including dingoes, snakes and spiders! - were on the island and we were more terrified than excited.

We stayed the night in Hervey Bay and left bright and early the next morning in our hot pink 4WD named “Stinky.”  We are yet to know why ours was named Stinky...  The night before, we had planned out our food for the trip, and we made a stop at the grocery store and butcher to buy everything we would need for the next few days.  From the grocery store, we drove to the barge and boarded a ferry that would take us across to Fraser Island.

Side note: One thing that we noticed is that the people in Hervey Bay were awfully grumpy.  We had a few run-ins with unpleasant people including the woman who worked at reception at our hostel, a random woman in the grocery store, and the man who parked the cars on the barge (and incidentally also worked the snack bar on the boat).  We later determined that it must have been because of the weather since it was a little cloudy that day, because they all appeared to be in better moods over the next couple of days.

Fraser Island is really paradise on earth.  With the exception of all of the dangers - dingoes, spiders, snakes, tiger sharks, and steep cliff edges - it was definitely near the top of my list of favorite destinations I have been.  For example, on the first day, we drove our car right on the beach and went to a place called Lake Wabby that is a tiny lake (it actually will not even be there anymore in approximately 5 years) surrounded by amazing sand dunes.  There were hundreds of catfish swimming in the lake that were not bashful and came right up to us.  While at Lake Wabby, we decided to climb the tallest of the sand dunes for an aerial view of Fraser Island.  We also saw our first dingo and were actually able to get quite close without fear of it attacking.


















After Lake Wabby, we found our campsite for the two nights that we would be staying on Fraser Island.  We had lost the other 2 pink 4WD’s that were part of our group, but instead found new friends.  On the campsite next to ours, there were 9 American girls and 7 guys who were from America and all over Europe.  They quickly became our friends, and we hung out at their campsite until bedtime.






Our schedule on Fraser Island was determined entirely by the tides since we were driving on the beach.  This meant that we were supposed to get up early and be off our campsite by 6:30AM.  Of course, none of us even woke up until nearly 7, so we were already behind schedule by the time the second day started.

On this day, we drove down the beach to see Maheno Wreck, a large shipwreck that has washed up on the beach and the Pinnacles.  The highlight of the day though was hiking to the top of Indian Head (the most northern part of the island we were allowed to see) and the Champagne Pools.  From the top of Indian Head, we could see tiger sharks and stingrays swimming in the clear blue water below over an enormous cliff edge.


















We walked down the beach a little further to the Champagne Pools which are my favorite part of Fraser Island by far.  Natural rock formations are found here, and when the waves wash over, tidal pools have been created.  The most ironic thing about Fraser Island is that the water is the clearest I have ever seen, however swimming is not recommended because it is a breeding place for tiger sharks.  The Champagne Pools are one of the only places that are safe enough to swim in saltwater.  I wish I could have my own Champagne Pools - I did not want to leave.  We were surrounded by fish, and when the waves crashed over the rocks, we were sprayed like champagne from a bottle.  It was really one of the most amazing places I have ever been.












The drive back from Champagne Pools was a race against high tide, and I was a little nervous at times.  There are many washouts (areas where freshwater streams have run-off into the ocean) and we had been warned that we would lose our entire $1,000 bond if we got any saltwater on our 4WD.  Lee was our fearless driver, and he did a great job getting us safely back to camp.  We only slid in the deep sand a little and hit our heads on the ceiling of the 4WD a few times haha...

On the second night, we found the other two pink 4WD (they had been camping just down the beach from us) and invited them over to meet our new neighbors.  We had such a great time getting to know everyone and I knew I would be sad to be leaving the next day.

We got a slightly late start on our third and final day, but we were not too worried.  Normally, we would be going to a place called Lake MacKensie which is famous for its crystal blue water.  However, they are doing some construction in that area, so we went to Lake Birnabeen instead (which is the sister lake of Lake MacKensie).  It was still beautiful and the water there was as crystal blue as the pictures I had seen of Lake MacKensie.  We stayed at the lake for a few hours, went for a swim, got a little sunburnt, and then drove back to the barge to head back to Hervey Bay.







At some point on the Fraser Island trip, Amy, Lee, Vic, and Mark convinced me to come with them to New Zealand.  When we got back to our hostel at Hervey Bay, I booked a one-way flight from Brisbane to Christchurch for the next morning at 9:40AM.  Even though I was planning to go all the way to Cairns on this East Coast road trip and had a few more stops to make along the way, I decided it would be spontaneous and fun to go to New Zealand with my new friends.

That night, we crammed all of our bags into their rental car and drove the 4 1/2 hours back down to Brisbane.  Instead of booking a hostel for the night, we decided to just sleep in the car/airport since our flight was so early.

I am a little nervous about how cold New Zealand will be since I had packed my East Coast road trip bag for tropical beach weather.  But this may be the only time in my life I can just book a flight to New Zealand the night before, so I had to take advantage of the opportunity...