Monday, May 10, 2010

Canberra (Capital of Australia)

And so my East Coast road trip has officially begun!  Well actually, I still have not been north of Sydney, but that is going to happen tomorrow.  From Melbourne, I made a one-day stop in Australia’s capital city of Canberra.  Most people (and by this I mean Americans) probably do not even know that Canberra is the capital of Australia.  The history behind why the capital is in Canberra is that no one wanted to choose between Sydney and Melbourne, so they created a new city in between.

I cannot even remember the last time I went to my own nation’s capital city, so I was excited about the possibility of some history and culture.  Another thing many people may not know (again referring to Americans) is how young a country Australia really is.  The history of the Commonwealth of Australia did not begin until 1901 when Queen Victoria allowed Australia to become a commonwealth (means they have a prime minister and their own government but also a governor-general that reports to Queen Elizabeth II).  And since they could not decide between Sydney and Melbourne for a capital, Canberra was not established as the capital city until years later.

In terms of history and culture, I would say that either Sydney or Melbourne have more to offer than Canberra.  For example, Botany Bay or the Rocks neighborhoods in Sydney were where some of the first convicts settled when they arrived from England.  And Melbourne has a thriving live music scene and arts precinct along with many sports arenas as well as the largest Greek population outside of Greece haha.  Do not get me wrong though, Canberra is a well-designed city with most of the government buildings built on or near Lake Burley Griffin.





Although the Parliament House (where Senate sits and House of Representatives meet) is an interesting building with a beautiful view, it was not opened until 1988 and is a very modern building.  Besides being an interesting building, Parliament House is also where you can see the Australian Coat of Arms which includes a kangaroo and an emu.  Some interesting facts about the coat of arms - (1) Australia is the only country to eat their national animal (kangaroo) and (2) the kangaroo and emu are on the coat of arms, because they are the only two animals that cannot walk backwards (thanks for this fact, Erin!).  This is meant to represent that Australia as a country is moving forward...













Another distinguishing thing about Parliament House is the Aboriginal art that is displayed out front on the ground by the fountain.  Okay, and they let you go out onto the roof for a beautiful view...  Other than that, it is separated by Old Parliament House (the one used before the new building was complete) by Federation Mall.  One of the most interesting things to see, in Canberra in my opinion, is the Aboriginal Tent Embassy which is set up behind Old Parliament.  Literally a collection of tents, the Embassy was first setup in the 1970‘s and has had a presence there ever since.  Also nearby is the High Court of Australia, the National Portrait Gallery, and the National Gallery of Australia.  I quickly walked around a few of the exhibits in each the National Portrait Gallery and the National Gallery of Australia (which had an interesting sculpture garden outside), but I could not get over how modern everything was.

















I did not mention that I arrived in Canberra from Melbourne by an overnight Greyhound Bus which means I got in at 4AM!  I originally booked the stop in Canberra to break up the trip to Sydney from Melbourne, but maybe I should have just gone the extra 3 1/2 hours.  The one day I had to spend in Canberra was a Sunday, and the already quiet capital city was practically deserted.  After completing my walking tour of the Parliamentary Zone, I decided to take advantage of the pool, spa, and sauna at my hostel - it is not everyday that they have such amenities!

This morning, I was pretty glad to be leaving early and heading to Sydney for a quick stop before officially beginning my East Coast road trip.  I had two interviews scheduled, and I was staying on Bondi for just one night.  I am not sure when I will have internet next, but my next post will come from somewhere I have not been before...get excited!

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Wilson's Promontory

After Humme and Erin left, I decided to hang around Melbourne for a few more days until I figured out my next move.  On Wednesday, I planned to go to Wilson’s Promontory for the day.  For those of you that do not know, Wilson’s Promontory is about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Melbourne, and it is the southernmost point of mainland Australia.  Across the Bass Strait from Wilson’s Promontory is the island of Tasmania, where I had been only a few weeks before.  In fact, less than 10,000 years ago, Tasmania, Wilson’s Promontory and mainland Australia were one land mass which is how they believe that Aboriginals arrived in Tasmania.  Today, Wilson’s Promontory is connected to mainland Australia by a thin isthmus, or land bridge.  The word “promontory” actually means a piece of land that juts out over water, in the case of Wilson’s Promontory.

As we drove down to Wilson’s Promontory National Park from Melbourne, it was pouring rain.  Our tour guide was optimistic that the weather might be clear at the “prom” since it tends to have its own weather patterns.  However, as we drove through the entrance to the park, it was still raining, and our tour guide tried to brainstorm things to do in case it did not clear up.

We drove straight through the park to Tidal River, where there was a shop and a cafe to wait for 1/2 hour to see what the weather would do.  None of us had any hope that the weather would clear, and we were bummed that we had chosen the wrong day.  However to our surprise, the clouds parted and the sun started to come out!  We watched some rosellas beg for food happily since the weather was getting better.



Since the rain appeared to have stopped, our tour guide decided it would be alright to do a walk around Tidal River that would lead us to a place called Squeaky Beach.  It is named Squeaky Beach, because when the sand is dry, it squeaks.  This is because each grain of sand is exactly the same size and shape as all the others.  As it had been a rainy day earlier, we did not get to hear the squeaking, but it was a beautiful beach just the same.  In fact, as we stopped for lunch, a rainbow even appeared.













After lunch, the rain clouds reappeared, so we decided to do a short walk to Lilly Pilly Gully to do a circle through the rainforest.  Much of Wilson’s Promontory had been burned by a bad bushfire in April 2009, but we were able to find many parts that had been growing back nicely.  The rainforest was green, dense, and beautiful.





It did not appear that it was going to rain, so we were able to go on the longer walk to the top of Mt. Bishop, which has a beautiful view from the top.  Although not the tallest mountain in the park (Mt. Oberon actually is), Mt. Bishop was our tour guide’s favorite and was still a 3.9km climb to the top!  The walk was beautiful as we wound our way up to the summit.  An amazing view of Tidal River and Squeaky Beach awaited us when we got there, and it was really windy.  One of the girls in our group was brave and climbed onto the ledge for a picture, so then of course we all had to try it.  It was a little scary with the wind blowing like crazy, but it was definitely a once in a lifetime opportunity, and I was going to take it.





After taking pictures of our daring feat and the views, we took a shortcut back down Mt. Bishop to the waiting tour bus.  It was getting late and we had to drive back to Melbourne for the night, but we made one last stop on our way out of the park.  Near an old airplane landing strip, tons of kangaroos and wombats congregate especially at dusk.  I had only seen one wombat before in the wild, so I was excited to see some more - they really are an interesting looking animal!  We were able to see almost a hundred kangaroos and a handful of wombats which was really exciting.





On the drive back and over the next couple of days, I planned my next trip - starting on Saturday, I will be slowly making my way up the East Coast of Australia from Melbourne to Cairns and possibly further depending on time.  Instead of waiting to hear back from the pending jobs, I figured now would be the best time to fit in this leg of my trip.  It is starting to get a little cold in Melbourne, and I hear that Queensland is still nice and warm.  Actually, now might be the best time to visit Queensland because it can almost be too warm and tropical during the summer when they have their wet season.

I am sad to say goodbye to Melbourne for now and the friends I have made so far, but I am excited about the East Coast road trip I am about to embark on...

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Humme's Visit (Sydney and Melbourne)

I ended up making my flight to meet Humme in Sydney but just barely.  I definitely had luck on my side that morning.  After waking up at 6AM, I went to the Balaclava train station which is the closest one to St. Kilda where I was staying.  For some reason, you can only purchase train tickets with coins (they have $1 and $2 coins in Australia and actually the $5 is the smallest bill), and I did not have enough.  Even though I knew there would be a fee if I used my debit card, I was scared with my last close call on the tram, so I tried buying a ticket with my debit card.  Of course it rejected my debit card (but not because I didn’t have money!) and I thought I was out of options.  Before I could beg someone nearby for some change, I found a $2 coin on the ground magically and could afford a ticket!  Just then a train came and I jumped on without even checking where it was going - I was still half sleepwalking - but luckily it was the one I needed to get to the Southern Cross Train Station.

That was only the beginning...  From the Southern Cross Station, I had to take a Skybus to the airport, but I managed to do that without any problems.  When I got to the airport, I printed my boarding pass and went through security.  I did not even have to check any bags because I was only going to be in Sydney for 3 1/2 days.  When I looked up at the departures screen to see which gate my flight was leaving from, it was not listed.  Strange I thought, but I just went to the gate of the next Sydney flight.  After waiting for nearly an hour, the flight began to board and when it was my turn to show my boarding pass, the flight attendant said this was not my flight!  At that same moment, my name was announced over the loudspeaker as a passenger who had checked in but had not yet boarded their flight.  It was then that I realized my flight was leaving from Gate 22 and I was standing in front of Gate 7 which meant I had to run to the opposite side of the Melbourne Airport!

With all of my bags (ok, maybe I didn’t pack as light as I thought) I ran as fast as I could to Gate 22, but when I got there, the door was already closed and the flight attendant was walking away.  I yelled for her to stop, and she just said, “You are lucky!” as she opened the door and let me on.  Breathless, I found my seat and immediately fell asleep for the remainder of the flight.

One thing that I do not think I have mentioned yet is how much domestic travel in Australia reminds me of flying in America about 10 years ago.  At some airports you can still meet people at the gate, and no one checks boarding passes or identification before you go through security.  Probably the best part is that you do not have to remove your shoes and you can even bring through your bottle of water (just no aerosol cans!).

Anyway, I made it safely to the Sydney airport.  From there, I only had to take the train from the airport to Humme’s hotel.  We could not check-in until 2PM, so after leaving our bags with the front desk, we decided to go straight to Taronga Zoo.  I am a big fan of zoos, but I can honestly say that Taronga Zoo is one of the best.  From our hotel, we walked to Circular Quay and then took a ferry across the harbour.  Once we arrived, we took a sky tram (similar to a ski lift) to the entrance of the zoo which is at the top of the hill.  From the sky tram, we saw an aerial view of many of the animals including the famous baby elephant that was born a few months ago on-site.  It really is an amazing story - there was no detection of a heartbeat for 6 days and they thought the baby elephant was dead, but then it miraculously came back to life!





Once you are at the entrance of the zoo, you walk downhill through the different exhibits.  All this time, you have a beautiful view of Sydney’s Harbour and the Opera House.  Of course, my favorite exhibit was the giraffes, but we also saw koalas, kangaroos, wallabies, snakes, little penguins, a platypus, an echidna, and a Komodo dragon among others.  There was even a petting zoo set up like a farm, but we quickly left this area with its crazy, screaming children.













From the zoo, we took the ferry back to Circular Quay, walked up the steps to the Opera House, and then explored the Botanical Gardens.  I pointed out the sleeping flying foxes to Humme, and we were fascinated with how many there actually were hanging in the trees.  There were literally thousands!  I had never before been to the Botanical Gardens at dusk, so we were in for a surprise when they all awoke and began flying in search of food.  It was one of the craziest things we have ever seen!

For dinner, we ate fresh seafood at one of the restaurants on Darling Harbour.  Darling Harbour is beautiful at night with the lights from the skyline reflecting over the water.  We were both exhausted from our hectic first day, so we went to bed early.  The next day we were climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge, so we wanted to conserve our energy.



The next morning, we walked around the Rocks which is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Sydney.  It even has a ghost tour that tourists can do, but we did not have the time.  We ate breakfast to prepare for the bridge climb and then decided to walk across the bridge on the pedestrian footpath while we waited for our 1:35PM climb time.




When we got to the Bridgeclimb center, we looked at all of the pictures of celebrities who had done it before us.  We were now going to become part of a select group that had climbed the bridge, including but not limited to Al Gore, Prince Harry, the cast from Glee, Nicole Kidman, Will Ferrell, Will Smith, and Ryan Reynolds.  At exactly 1:35PM, we were led into a room to fill out disclaimer forms and were given breathalyzer tests.  Apparently, you cannot complete the climb if you blow above a 0.05, but we both passed.  Next, they issue each person special suits for the climb and everything you bring with you is attached to the suit.  As part of the climb, you go over the Bradfield Highway which is the busiest in Sydney, so they do not want you to drop anything on the traffic below.  For this reason, you are not even allowed to bring cameras!  However, they do let you take a handkerchief (in case you get emotional), sunglasses, a beanie or hat, headphones and a radio (so we could hear our guide, Craig) and everyone brings a fleece which is attached to your safety belt (in case it gets cold).






While still inside, we did a test run of the ladder portion we would be faced with outside.  It was quite simple compared to the real thing - when you actually climb the ladder sections on the bridge, your head is literally between lanes 5 and 6 on the Bradfield Highway!  All in all, we climbed up (and down) 4 ladder sections and 1,300 odd steps and burned between 600-800 calories.  The view from the top of the bridge was amazing, we could see all of Sydney’s natural harbours and the stunning Opera House.  From the summit, we were 1 1/2 football fields above Sydney Harbour, and Craig let us know that we could hit water in a little over 5 seconds if we were wondering.





The bridge really is amazing - it was built over 8 years from 1923 before there were computers, calculators, or engineering software.  Only 16 people died during the construction of the bridge even though they did not have advanced safety equipment, and only 3 actually died from falling.  At this current time, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is the largest single arch span bridge in the world (in terms of height, width, and length), but apparently this will no longer be true in less than 2 weeks when a new one is completed in Dubai.

Ok, enough about the bridge.  The last thing I will say though is they would never let you do something like this in America.  All in all, the bridge climb seemed relatively safe and the only scary part for me was walking under the approach section (where the traffic approaches the actual bridge).  We were attached to the bridge at all times by safety harnesses that seemed they would be able to hold us in case we fell.  I would definitely recommend it but only if you are not afraid of heights!

Later that night, I taught Humme how to do a Tim Tam Slamma with hot chocolate, and he posted the video tutorial on Facebook.  Basically, you buy a package of Tim Tams (Original), bite off the ends diagonally, suck some hot chocolate through the biscuit like a straw, and then throw the entire thing in your mouth.  You have to eat the entire thing at once, because the hot liquid makes the chocolate inside melt (I may have left this part out when teaching, sorry Humme!)

On our last full day in Sydney, Humme took the ferry to Manly Beach in the morning while I hung out around the city preparing for a job interview I had that day.  We planned to meet around lunchtime at Circular Quay to take the bus to Bondi Beach.  It was a beautiful beach day, and we laid out for a bit before starting the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk right before sunset.  I have attempted this walk 2 times in the past, but I had yet to make it all the way.  It was a lot warmer on my earlier attempts, so I usually ended up stopping for a swim.





We did make it all the way to Coogee Beach, but it was a long walk!  The stunning views of the coastline, especially at sunset, made it really picturesque.  The moon even came out as we neared Coogee, and it was almost full.  Once we arrived in Coogee, we were exhausted and decided to take a cab back to Bondi Beach for dinner.










The next morning, we flew on separate flights to Melbourne - this time with no problems!  When we arrived at the airport, we decided to take a cab to Humme’s hotel in St. Kilda.  Unlike Sydney, Melbourne does not have a train from the airport, but instead it is much more difficult to get to the city (especially St. Kilda).  After meeting up with Erin, Humme’s friend from U of A who is studying abroad in Wollongong, I gave them a quick walking tour of St. Kilda.  We walked down Fitzroy St towards the beach, past Luna Park, up Acland St. to the St. Kilda Botanical Garden which is small but still beautiful.  There were even some older men playing giant chess which was fun to watch for a few minutes.  It was getting close to dusk, so we walked out to St. Kilda pier to find some little penguins.  We saw a couple and then headed back to Fitzroy St for dinner.  After dinner, we met up with Renee and her friend Mitch (who she had met when she lived in London for a year) and we stayed up late grabbing some drinks and catching up at the Vineyard.

















When we woke up the next morning, we decided to take a tram into the city to show them the tourist spots there.  We went to the Queen Victoria Markets and ate warm jam donuts which were delicious before getting a little lost on our way to the Docklands.  We watched a magic show in Federation Square that wasn’t very good before walking down Southbank to Crown Casino.  We were all amazed to see that they only had one craps table (apparently it is not popular in Australia), but as soon as we began playing, people gathered to watch and learn.  That night, we went to Lygon St. for dinner (Melbourne’s equivalent of North Beach in SF or Little Italy) and it was delicious.  Earlier in the day, we had booked a rental car for the next morning and would be driving to see the Great Ocean Road.



The next morning, we woke up, picked up our rental car and drove to Prahran Market on Chapel St. to get some supplies for a picnic lunch.  Afterward, we drove to the Great Ocean Road which is about a 2-hour drive to the entrance.  We drove through Lorne, spotted some koalas in the wild!, and stopped to eat in Apollo Bay.  We also stopped to look at the 12 Apostles, the London Bridge, the Grotto, and the Arch before driving back to Melbourne for the night.


















For Humme’s final day in Melbourne, we were going to an AFL game.  After eating brunch on DeGraves Street (a cute laneway), we were going to see Carlton vs. Collingwood who are rival teams, and we were cheering for the Carlton Blues to win!  Our seats were awesome, and we even tried a meat pie (that’s the thing to do here). The match was very intense and interesting to watch - it is much different from American Football.  We had a great time even though Collingwood ended up winning...












Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to Humme as he was flying back to the US the following morning.  We had a great time seeing the sights together and catching up on each other’s lives.  Seeing him helped me to be less homesick until we talked about his plans for Bay to Breakers in SF next weekend - so sad I am missing out!  Now, I will just have to wait to see who visits me next!

Saturday, May 1, 2010

ANZAC Day in Melbourne

After spending 10 days in the "Natural State" of Tasmania, it was time to head back to reality - or in my case, Melbourne. I had scheduled a job interview for a while while I was going to be there, but other than that I did not realy have any other plans. As it seems to happen when I'm in Melbourne, the weather could not decide what it wanted to do. Most days started out sunny and warm, but by the time I put on my bathing suit, got off video chat with someone or the other, and made it to the beach at St Kilda, the clouds had come out and rain was not far behind.

The job interview went well, and I was even offered the job to start the following Wednesday (one week later), but I politely refused. The problem with not working for almost 3 months is that I am not in a hurry to be back anytime soon. It has been really nice not having any stress or worries. In fact, I have found myself saying more than once, "all I have is time", and it is true. If the weather is not good or I cannot do something on one day, I can always do it the next, or the one after that. That is the beauty of this trip and travelling the way that I do. By not making plans too far out, or commiting to too many things, I am more free to make sure I get to do the things I want. I had been saying since I started this trip, that I wanted to travel until around June, and at that time, I would be ready to start working. Now I am thinking more along the lines of July!

While in Melbourne, I had a close call on the tram, which is basically the San Francisco equivalent of the trolley. For some reason, I did not purchase a ticket and almost did not get away with it. At one stop, three workers got on and checked to make sure everyone had a ticket. I had to play dumb tourist, and pretend that I did not know how to use the ticket machine, to get out off a fine of at least $100! I did get away with it, thanks to my amazing acting skills, phew!

I also came to find out that ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) Day was on the weekend, and Monday was a public holiday. For those of you that do not know, ANZAC Day in Melbourne is their version of the Superbowl. Two Melbourne teams, (Essendon and Collingwood) play each other at Australian Rules football (AFL or "footy"). I almost had the opportunity to go see the game live. I really want to go see one, but did not end up finding a ticket. Instead, I went with Renee and some friends to a pub to watch the game. We met up with James Dean that night, and he was wearig gold shoes (that his Dad bought him), dancing on the corner, and snacking on some jerky (he thought he was Usher).  Thanks Renee for that addition - she was nice enough to type this blog entry for me.

And one of the best things about ANZAC Day? ANZAC biscuits! Renee made a couple of batches, and they were yummy. Made with some combination of brown sugar, butter, oats, flour, coconut and a few other ingredients. ANZAC biscuits quickly became a problem for me...

I had a great time, but this is the first time that I started to feel homesick, so I was glad that Humme was coming the next day! I was not looking forward to waking up at 6am for my flight to Sydney, where I was meeting Humme.

As a side not to this entry, there are many Australian versions of American things. So I thought I would list a few.
  • Cold Stone could not enter the market because of a mysterious chain called Cold Rock, that does exactly the same thing.
  • Burger King had to change their name to Hungry Jacks in most areas in Australia. Strangely, it was because there was already another chain called Burger King.
  • There is no Taco Bell, but they do have Taco Bill.
  • The nightly news program is called Lateline (Nightline or Dateline anyone?)
  • Something mysterious is going on with the Target stores here. They even have a Target Country store (think plaid shirts and cowboy hats).